Miles 30.6 - 188.4

This section was tough, really tough. The elevation profile looked like it was stamped with a W and a couple of Vs.

Day 3 ZERO

My ankles are tender and I'm a princess so I took the day off. Pretty uneventful day but it was funny that most of the people there had ice packs on their ankles. Ravensong's Roost or the Hiker Hut was a welcome surprise. A full kitchen, couches, and mattresses to sleep on in the loft.

My legs felt so tight that I ended up going to a morning yoga class to try to stretch. I'll admit, some of those moves were “spicy".

Day 4 Mile 30.6 - 46.8

In the morning, a few guys went to the General Store in Mazama to get breakfast. The breakfast sandwich was good but I wish I had gotten the tomato and pesto instead of the sausage. The hitch back up was a bit crowded as these two women fit three hikers and gear into a 30 year old forerunner.

Up at Hart's Pass, it was cold and foggy. There were maybe 15 hikers at the pass when I got up. Most were enjoying some trail magic and fire by Broken Toe.

Hiking from the pass was easy. With the cool air and overcast sky, I was making good time. There was a big decent from Grasshopper Pass losing 2600 feet.

Wanting to take it easy, I stopped at Willis Camp, near Golden Creek for an easy 16 mile day. Camping next to a creek gave me the bright idea to soak my feet and dear lord it was painfully cold.

Day 5 46.8 - 61.5

The weather was clear. The vistas were gorgeous. I was kicking myself for not pushing the extra 4 miles up to the top of Methow Pass. When I did manage to get to the top, my jaw dropped as I looked into the next valley. There were low clouds hugging the middle of the mountains while sunlight was breaking through holes in the higher cloud cover to brighten parts of the landscape. I could only imagine how good the whole place would have looked and hour or two earlier.

I couldn't keep my eyes on the trail as it crossed towards Cutthroat Pass and almost walked right off the trail a few times. This little section between Methow and Cutthroat is something special.

Going up Cutthroat Pass was a tough mile. A lot of switchbacks and 650 ft up. At the pass, I took a wrong turn and went about half a mile down the wrong path. Oh well. Back up.

After the pass, there were only a few short miles downhill to Rainy pass where I got a hitch back to Mazama to pick up my snow gear and then to Winthrop to mail it home.

By this point in the afternoon the weather had turned for the worse and I got back to the Hiker Hut not long before it started raining. I was planning of getting one last ride up to Rainy Pass and camping there but when a hiker came in and said it was hailing at the pass I decided a roof and shower sounded better.

Day 6 61.5 - 80.7

I caught an easy ride up to the pass in the morning and was on the trail early. Today was all downhill towards Stehekin.

I had forgotten how tough downhills could be. With my 48ish pound pack, every step felt as though my pack was trying to drive me into the ground like I was a railroad spike.

The trail was pretty overgrown for most of the way and there were plenty of critters crawling around. I did see my first snake which made my day. It was a little black guy with thin yellow stripes down his body. Another hiker said he saw six bears on the way down to Stehekin and I was only mildly jealous.

Made it down to the ranger station around 2:30, half an hour before the bus. A bunch of familiar faces were waiting for that same bus. People I had seen at the Hiker Hut or had passed on trail. Did I mention that it's hot down here at 1600 ft. The bus was $8 into town.

Stehekin is a tiny little town with no cell service but a beautiful lake, good bakery, and free camping. With the tweak I felt in my leg, another zero sounded right.

Day 7 ZERO

I dont actually have all that much to say about today. I took the free shuttle to the bakery and filled myself to the brim and then took a nap for most of the afternoon. Hung out with Moses, Wes, Cruise, Maverick, and all of the other hikers on the porch of the store (they sold the only wifi in town). I did take a few portraits which felt productive.

Day 8 Mile 80.7 - 100.2

Decided to treat myself and ate breakfast and downed 4 cups of coffee at the only restaurant in town before the first bus back to the trail. On the way to the trail, the bus stops at the bakery and I have some major regrets not packing out 3 cinnamon rolls.

Anyway, with all the town calories and caffeine I was feeling darn good. I needed that feeling too. The miles for today held 4200 feet of gain. Not that bad but I'm still working on my trail legs so the aggressive grade towards the end took it out of me. A river was flowing next to the trail all day and I felt like I was in a trance listening to the waters rage. The weather was good and there were great views going up so I enjoyed myself today.

The best section was at the end once the trail climbed past the trees. Sure, the grade was kicking my but it’s worth it for the view.

A group of us stopped at mile 100.2. There was space for all of our tents and even a brand new toilet/throne. No joke, the toilets in this section were great because the ground is too rooty or rocky to dig a cat hole and some of them were only a week old so they didn't smell. The bad part of this camp site was that there was standing water, the whole place was a marsh, so the bugs were thick in the air. As each hiker, Cruise, Wes, and Jay made it to camp, they instantly had their bug nets on.

Day 9 100.2 - 121.1

I felt really strong today. The trail went 3700 ft down and then 3500 ft up over the days miles. I was a bit concerned about the decent but I was surprised by how gently graded and well groomed the trail was. The 12 miles to the bottom went by in a flash. There was a stop for lunch at the bridge crossing over Suiattle River.

Going up was a bit easier than yesterday. I felt a bit stronger and my food pack was a bit lighter. There were downed trees every so often and while some were huge it wasnt to bad. I stopped at the Dolly Vista Trail Camp for the great views it had. The other guys went on but I was hoping for a sunset.

The campsite was crowded but everyone was friendly. More portraits.

The throne had a great view. 10/10 poop rating.

Sunset was nice as it was the first one I've seen since getting back on.

Day 10 Mile 121.1 - 143.9

Today was terrible. One of the worst on trail. It started so well. No sunrise but I felt some momentum as I got going. Passed Wes at his camp around 9am just before the 3000 ft decent. On Guthooks, there were comments about this downhill being really overgrown but it was well trampled when I went through. It still requires a lot of concentration though. There were rocks hiding all along and everything was slippery and wet. It went fast enough though.

On the way up there was a stop for water every two miles and I was powering up the mountain feeling good. At one of the creeks, there were two older men and one had hurt his knee. They asked to send a message on my Garmin to ask someone for help which I did. There was no reply for a few hours after I had left them.

Took a lunch break at Mica Lake which was stunning even with all of the clouds. The water was a deep blue and there were ice sheets still floating around the lake. It would have been a great place to camp.

The final 800 ft to the top was hard but it was the decent that really killed me. Poor maintainance, steep grades, many downed trees, broken headphones, a few bad trips, and a gps that wouldn't cooperate all united to give me a tantrum. Cursing, arm flailing, and all.

I finally got a reply on my Garmin that search and rescue had been contacted and were requesting more information. I gave them what little info I had. They sent a helicopter and I'm not sure what happened after that.

Made it to Baekos Creek and was over the day. I threw my crap down and tried to get a fire going. Cruise showed up as I was trying to get it going and looked really happy to see it. He didn't have fun on that downhill either.

Day 11 143.9 - 163.4

After the mission that was yesterday, I was looking for a nice and easy day. The goal was Pass Creek, 19.5 miles away.

The ascent was easy, the easiest I've had. I think my trail legs are finally here. Also, I had an emergency bowel movement and the nearest toilet was a mile up the trail so you could say that I had motivation to keep the pace up. Even so, I was dragging. I had only gone 8 miles by noon.

At the top, there were peaks for days in all directions. The clouds were breaking up and the trail followed the ridge for most of the day. Seriously, this section is amazing. It’s a reason to thru hike. If I had extra food, I would have camped down and taken a zero out here.

I even shamed two hikers into stopping at Lake Sally Ann. They looked like they were going to pass right by without giving it a second look even though it was stunning on this pretty day.

Pass Creek made a good campsite and a better place to soak weary feet.

Day 12 Mile 163.4 - 184.9

I wanted miles today. The sky was overcast so it was easier to keep focused on the miles instead of pictures. There was a lot of elevation change but it was broken up into 4 major ascents and various descents. I crushed the first two up hills and had a feeling that I might make it all the way to Stephen's Pass today.

The trail went over the summit of Grizzly Peak. While the name makes it sound intense, it's only 5600 feet and looks like any other part of the trail.

Rains came in during the afternoon and I just felt like finishing my miles. Lake Valhalla was a good looking lake that I didn't even stop to look at. Ended up 3.6 from the pass at a creek. The mosquitoes were insane. The worst on trail so far. I retreated into my tent for the night as soon as I had it set up.

Day 13 184.9 - 188.4

A poor night’s sleep had me packed up early and heading to the pass. I had town food on my mind. Turns out that they let hikers lowboy camp at the pass. If only I had known. I was surprised to see Moses and Super Jay. They said they were able to crank out a 30 mile day. Got some breakfast, they headed out and Cruise, Maverick, and I got a ride in the back of a pick up into Skykomish to resupply and do laundry. 10/10 would refuse that hitch next time.

So that section was tough and I think, if it didn't break hikers, it hardened them. The 71 miles to Snoqualmie Pass look pretty nasty too but it's a shorter haul and I have high hopes. Though, it is supposed to piss rain tomorrow.